KWV, the huge combine that once dominated the South African wine industry, has turned into a quality producer, and it shows in this fine wine. It has elegance and sophistication in the way it balances big flavors of spice and black plums with considerable restraint, and in the way the fruit is layered with dry Cabernet tannins. This needs some aging—three to four years would be good. ——R.V.(11/1/2006)—— 90