Adelaida is assembling a good track record with this wine. It’s from the cooler western portion of the appellation, so that crisp acidity provides a fine framework for the slightly sweet tropical fruit, wildflower and spice flavors. With its exotic personality, it’s best paired with strongly flavored, complex dishes that combine poultry, game or shellfish with fruits, nuts and honey.——S.H.(5/1/2008)—— 89