The 2004 Etna Rosso is 95% Nerello Mascalese with a tiny element of Nerello Cappuccio that has spent many slow years aging in large oak casks. Fruit is sourced from the prized Calderara Contrade from 100-plus-year-old vines at 750 meters above sea level. Despite its impressive pedigree, this Etna Rosso is weighed down by proverbial Band-Aid aromas that denote brett. Sour cherry, sweet spice and dark caramel fill in the rear. Drink 2014-2015. Massimiliano Calabretta enjoys a large fan base, although I am often distracted by the wine’s rusticity. Importer: Polaner Selections, www.polanerselections.com