The 2010 Viognier Lia is a pretty wine, laced with expressive tropical fruit, lychee, white flowers and aromatic spices. This attractive, mid-weight Viognier is an excellent choice for drinking over the next few years. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2015. This is a very strong set of wines from DuMOL and winemaker Andy Smith. Like so many producers, DuMOL is in the midst of a stylistic shift that began around 2005. Smith described some of the estate’s earlier wines as a bit too heavy. Today’s approach emphasizes picking a bit earlier than in the past and places greater emphasis on complexity, structure and acidity. At times, the malolactic fermentations are blocked. The Chardonnays are barrel fermented and aged in oak (50% new) with all of their lees, but there is no stirring of the lees. Tel. (925) 254-8922; www.dumol.com