Notes of smoky oak can be discerned in the shy, spirit-laced aromatics of the 2003 Offley Boa Vista Vintage Port. A broad, thick, lush wine, it requires air to integrate its acidity and tannin with its copious quantities of candied red as well as black fruits. Drink it between 2018 and 2028.Importer: Evaton, Inc., Stamford, CT; tel. (203) 968-8220

A fine, structured wine from one of the Port houses now owned by Sogrape (Portugal’s largest wine producer). It is in a relatively fast maturing style, but the Port has great, ripe blackberry jelly flavors, some dry tannins and a full, fleshy feel. Imported by Tri-Vin Imports. ——R.V.(11/15/2005)—— 90