Jean-Paul Brun Domaine des Terres Dorees Beaujolais Blanc, Beaujolais, France

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There’s no law that says Beaujolais has to be red, although that’s what most people think. This stellar Chardonnay comes from limestone soils in the very south of Beaujolais and the cuvee imported into the U.S. is made entirely in stainless steel. A small portion of the wine comes from a botrytis-affected parcel, but you don’t really taste its effects so much as sense extra weight on the palate. Pure Chardonnay flavors, with intense concentration, crisp acidity and a long, lingering finish. ——J.C.(11/15/2003)—— 88