Goisot Bourgogne Cotes d'Auxerre

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Fusil and quarry dust notes rise from the glass of Goisot 2007 Cotes d’Auxerre, which comes onto the palate juicily redolent of grapefruit, and striking a lovely balance between a palpable sense of extract and bright refreshment. If ever a case can be made for imagining that somehow chalk in the soil has a direct counterpart in chalkiness of taste, then this could serve as the proverbial Exhibit A. Subtle suggestions of nut oils lend an aura of richness to what might otherwise have been a rather austere finish. The basic Goisot Cotes d’Auxerre bottling incorporates a significant share of young vines and is harvested early, lest those lose acidity. The finest I can recall, I would plan to enjoy it over the next 2-3 years. Guilhem Goisot (whose name has now replaced that of his mother in this estate’s official title) echoed the sentiments of many regional growers that the grapes – while already adequately high in sugar at the end of August – were simply not ripe. But time was on an Auxerrre vintner’s side in 2007, and the Goisots were able to pick selectively, parcel by parcel, for three weeks, as compared with nine days in 2006. Their single-vineyard bottlings came close to 13.5% in natural alcohol, those few lots that approached 14% having been consigned to blends. Sauvignon, with its characteristically southwestern exposures (hail-free this year), was picked last – albeit already mid-September – and adequately ripe.Thomas Calder Selections (various importers), Paris; fax 011-33-1-46-45-15-29