Browned butter, quince, acacia, and lime zest inform the nose of Goisot’s 2006 Cotes d’Auxerre, and on the creamy yet refreshing palate are joined by yellow plum and ginger. While this lacks quite the layering, clarity, or lip-smacking satisfaction of this year’s Aligote (which will surprise no one familiar with this estate), it offers convincing length, with a distinctly chalky sense of minerality. The Goisots farmed organically before that implied any fashion statement, and have long been the foremost vintners of appellation Saint-Bris (Sauvignon Blanc). Their Chardonnays of Cotes d’Auxerre appellation have been enhanced in recent vintages by the addition of barrel-fermented bottlings from individual sites that offer a level of complexity comparable to top-notch premier cru Chablis.Importer:Thomas Calder Selections (various importers), Paris; fax 011-33-1-46-45-15-29