The big, very dark and inviting nose of ripe cherry, licorice, cocoa and toast sets things up. The dense palate is packed with cherry, tar, even bacon notes, and it has a plush, velvety feel that belies the wine’s structure. The impressive finish is dark and toasty, with well-dispersed tannins. Cellar two to four years.——W.E.(11/1/2000)—— 93