The 2010 Cosme Palacio 1894 white is produced from 60-year-old Viura grapes with 5% of Malvasia grown close to Laguardia and aged on their lees for ten months in French oak barrels of second and third use. It has a bright golden color, and a nose redolent of roasted nuts, honey, beeswax and candied quince. With a little bit of time and air it develops aromas of dry flowers and chamomile tea. The medium-bodied palate reveals a wine that is fluid with pungent flavors, good acidity and a mild bitter aftertaste. A traditional oak-aged white that should please the fans of the style and should last well. Drink 2014-2020.
Bodegas Palacio in Laguardia is not to be confused with Palacios Remondo in Alfaro. It was founded in 1894 by Cosme Palacio, and remained in the hands of the Palacio family until it was sold in 1972 and again in 1987 to Jean Gervais, Seagram Europe’s former vice president, and a group of investors. Gervais created one of the first truly modern Riojas in the 1980s with the help of Michel Rolland, Cosme Palacio y Hermanos, a more concentrated and fruity wine where the oak aging had been shortened to one year and the oak used was French rather than American. The wine was a success. In 1998, the winery was sold to the Entrecanales group, today called Acciona, one of the largest business groups in Spain, who also own Arrayan in Mentrida, Vina Real in Ribera del Duero and Barcelo, makers of the popular brand, Penascal. They do not own vineyards but have long term agreements with some 60 grape growers from Laguardia which allows them to produce around 1.5 million bottles of wine per year. Vina Perdiz is the entry level label, Glorioso brand has a very accessible profile, while Cosme Palacio keeps faithful to the style they created in the late 1980s.
Imported by Bronco Wine Co, Ceres, CC; tel. (209) 272-3000; www.broncowine.com
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