Big and full-bodied, with just a touch of sugar in evidence, while the alcohol is up to 13%. Petrol and slate notes mark the nose, while the fruit features pineapple, nectarine and melon. Long, powerful and citrusy on the finish, with underlying minerality and spice that provides fascinating complexity. Great now, but there’s no reason this shouldn’t age well for five or more years.——J.C.(10/1/2007)—— 91