A bit burly in tannins, with a dry, sandpapery mouthfeel. But that doesn’t stop the blackberry, black cherry and currant fruit from shining through, or put a damper on the sweet, toasty oak notes. Doesn’t feel like an ager, so the tannins are here to stay, but a good steak will wrestle them into submission.——S.H.(9/1/2010)—— 90