Aldo Conterno's 1990 Barbera d'Alba Conca Tre Pile offers a performance not unlike Ravel's "Bolero." It begins slowly, then increases speed, intensity, and dimension as it unfolds on the palate. The color is a healthy dark ruby. The nose is somewhat closed but does offer good, clean, ripe black and red fruits. If its aromatic reticence is of concern to any of Conterno's legion of admirers, the flavors are reassuring. It possesses well-focused, sweet, ripe Barbera fruit presented in a medium-bodied format. There is adequate underlying acidity, excellent purity, and a refreshing vibrancy to the wine. While not the biggest, most ostentatious or oaky Barbera, it is a textbook, classic example of the vintage and the varietal. Drink it over the next decade. Importers: Vias Imports, New York, NY and Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA.
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