An inexpensive yet excellent bargain for its quality, the 1996 Protocolo white may be Spain's answer to the delicious, light-bodied, citrusy, dry whites emerging from France's Cotes de Gascogne. This tank-fermented wine, bottled early for fruit retention, is a crisp, light-bodied, elegant, perfumed, fruity, uncomplicated wine that is refreshing, and surprisingly appealing for such a lowly price. It needs to be drunk over the next 6 months to take advantage of its fresh, vivacious personality. Importer: Jorge Ordonez, Fine Estates From Spain, Dedham, MA; tel. (617) 461-5767
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