The 2003 Syrah (Rose) Vin de Pays d’Oc explodes from the glass with candied black raspberry and black cherry aromas. Crammed with considerable fruit, this boisterous wine bastes the taster’s palate with fresh waves of super-ripe cherries, raspberries, and blackberries. There isn’t an ounce of complexity to this excellent rose, yet tons of decadent, hedonistic pleasure. Its lush, suave personality extends into a lingering finish that leaves behind a sweet kiss of kirsch. Drink it over the next 6-9 months. Having recently been upgraded to business class on a transatlantic flight where I’d been served tired, drying out whites from Beaune and Pernand-Vergelesses, I wrote in my tasting notes, “wouldn’t joyful wines like these be more appropriate to serve on airlines?”Always an innovator in packaging (the flower-adorned labels of his Beaujolais bottles caused quite a stir when first unveiled), Duboeuf is once again going out on a limb, unveiling a line of “New Generation” labels for his “Reserve” wines from the south. Encased in highly-colorful thin plastic jackets, the wines are not “l(fā)abeled”, they’re turned into brightly showy art work. Duboeuf’s marketing studies have indicated that this packaging appeals significantly to young buyers.Importer: William Deutsch and Sons, White Plains, NY; tel. (914) 251-9463; and Winesellers, Ltd., Skokie, IL; tel. (847) 679-0121