A problematic wine, especially considering the price. It’s dark in color, quite tannic and bone dry, with powerful cherry and cola flavors, liberally accented with smoky oak. Has all the hallmarks of an ageable young Pinot Noir, but there’s a stubbornly unripe streak of green peppercorn all the way through. Difficult and risky to predict where this wine is going.——S.H.(5/1/2011)—— 87