The 1996 Nebbiolo d'Alba Valmaggiore could easily be called "the poor person's Barolo." The vintage's excellence is reflected in the sweetness and richness of this offering. The color is dark ruby with lightening at the edge. The knock-out aromatics offer up cedar, tobacco, dried herbs, cherry liqueur, smoke, and pepper scents. Beautifully rich in the mouth, with textbook Nebbiolo flavors, this medium to full-bodied wine reveals a silky texture, and a lush, concentrated finish. It should continue to drink well, perhaps improve, over the next 5-8 years. I suspect readers are in for some exquisite wines from the 1996 and 1997 vintages from Piedmont's most notable guardian of traditional winemaking - Bruno Giacosa. This release includes several wines from the 1996 vintage, but it is also apparent that Giacosa has done reasonably well in the more difficult years of 1995 and 1993. Leonardo Locasio Selection, Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620