Weingut Kerpen Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett Trocken, Mosel, Germany

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Kerpen’s 2009 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett trocken offers an attractive counterpoint of brown-spiced vanilla custard with juicy citrus and tartly-edged apple. Rather substantial and in my opinion a bit lacking in levity – despite its peppy acids – to be called “Kabinett,” its appeal ought to persist for several years. Martin Kerpen’s 2009 collection Rieslings possess uncommon brightness for their vintage, and he continues to excel across a blessedly broad stylistic range, from legally trocken through nobly sweet – and, more importantly, with plenty of successful stops in-between. It’s worth noting that Kerpen is especially keen on the quality of his nobly sweet 2009s – wines that are certainly close to off-the-charts on paper – although as readers can see, my praise for them is more selective.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300