An excellent example of Schmitges’ talents is his beautifully-balanced 2007 Erdener Treppchen Riesling Kabinett trocken, a wine that expresses the typical citricity (lemon, tangerine) and herbs (sage, fennel) of the site without becoming either shrill or bitter, but instead presents a model of stuffing and extract at moderate alcohol, along with succulence, refreshment and clarity. There is a sensation in the finish hard to describe other than as “shimmering minerality.” Interestingly, this was picked the second week in October, near the beginning of Schmitges’ harvest, yet despite this, and despite coming from a relatively slow-warming parcel low-down in the Treppchen – engendering correspondingly modest grape suga – it expresses an utterly satisfying sense of ripeness. (That said, the 2006 version was less ripe or satisfying.) I would expect this to perform with versatility at table for at least 3-4 years, but cannot speak from a track record for wine of this style and quality here, since Schmitges would be the first to admit he was not performing at this level (or in precisely this style) even 3-4 years ago. Andreas Schmitges has just completed an impressive restoration of his family’s former house as a tasting room, and in viticulturally relevant respects, too, he continues to display healthy ambition, which is fortunately justified by excellent wines that keep getting even better.Importers include: Dee Vine Wines, San Francisco, CA tel. (877) 389-9463; Ewald Moseler Selections, Portland OR tel. 888 274 4312; Magellan Wine Imports, Centennial, CO (720) 272-6544.
粵公網(wǎng)安備 44030502006249號