Vollenweider’s 2005 Wolfer Goldgrube Riesling Auslese Long Gold Capsule is the product of fruit that was left after bunches were pulled apart by hand in the press house to separate raisined berries for B.A. and T.B.A.. Honey, grilled grapefruit, and overripe pear aromas lead into a glossy, faintly oily, liqueur-like palate with nuances of wood smoke, white raisin, and brown spices accenting the wine’s grapefruit, banana, caramelized pear, and candied pineapple fruit character. Subtly salty traces add a sense of refreshment and contrast in the finish of this opulently rich but bell-clear Riesling. Its fat, drippingly rich, almost statuesque personality is worlds away from that of its “short” gold capsule sibling although I find the latter more fascinating. Importer: Vineyard Research, Inc., Lunenburg, MA; tel. (617) 686-8052; Ewald Moseler Selections, Portland OR; tel. (888) 274-4312; Old Vine Imports, San Francisco, CA