The 2004 ESCOLHA, a special selection, is 100% Loureiro, aged in French oak, but it is hard to believe this had any oak at all. There is a slight roundness around the edges, but this is crisp and even has some mouth puckering acidity. It is also not the type of Vinho Verde that you have to drink on release—it has held beautifully, still feels alive, and even improves a bit in the glass. At this point in its life, there is a certain burnished note, but also a lively lemon-lime nuance on the finish and a certain oily, mouth-coating texture. It has fine depth for Loureiro. For best results, although it will yet hold, drink up. Drink now-2009.

Made from the aromatic, floral Loureiro grape, this is a fresh, crisp, lemon- and peach-flavored wine, with a fine structure of green plum skins. It is delicious wine now, all vibrant fruit, but it could age for 2–3 years.——R.V.(7/1/2008)—— 92