Waters Winery Forgotten Hills Vineyard Syrah, Walla Walla Valley, USA

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The 2006 Syrah Forgotten Hills comes from an estate-owned vineyard. It is a very different, but equally fine, expression of the Syrah grape. Dark ruby-colored it offers an aromatic array of gun smoke, scorched earth, and savory spices. It is not as dense or opulent as the Loess cuvee but is more elegant and likely, more age-worthy. Give it 2-3 years in the cellar, and drink it from 2011 to 2021. Jason Huntley calls the shots and Jamie Brown makes the wine at Waters Winery, one of Walla Walla’s finest new producers. Tel. (509) 525-1590; www.waterswinery.com

From 10-year-old vines at a vineyard in the foothills of the Blue Mountains east of town, this is a lush and loamy Syrah, smelling and tasting of moist earth, game and blood. There are some roasted tomato flavors along with light red fruits, but this is no wimpy wine; in fact, it gathers strength and concentration as it sits in the mouth, suggesting that it needs more years in the bottle to fully emerge from its shell.——P.G.(5/1/2009)—— 90