Waters Winery Forgotten Hills Vineyard Syrah, Walla Walla Valley, USA

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The 2005 Syrah Forgotten Hills made use of 12% new French oak. It exhibits an aromatic array of meat, bacon, game, and wild blueberry followed by a round, ripe flavor profile with savory blue and black fruits, light tannin, and a lengthy finish. It will drink well from 2012 to 2020. Jason Huntley is the principal behind Waters Winery which began in 2005 and currently owns four estate vineyards. Production is 4000 cases. www.waterswinery.com

This 100% Syrah is tight, young and sappy, and the tart fruit tastes of salmonberries and blueberries, with hints of mineral and flint. Call it a Euro style, with that sort of grip and detail. It rewards airtime and attention, yet still hints at a slightly green edge. ——P.G.(7/1/2008)—— 89