Purple in color, with syrupy aromas that carry a hint of cinnamon and spice. This youngster is meant to be drunk now—and probably without much analysis. It’s a quaffer, one with a bulky, chewy body and full tannic grip. Almost certainly it went through carbonic maceration, a fermentation method that pumps up sweetness several times over. ——M.S.(12/15/2002)—— 83