Lavish and expressive, the 2017 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru Cuvée des Merles bursts from the glass with a fruit-driven bouquet of ripe cherries, licorice, spices and sweet soil that is typical of this vineyard. Full-bodied, satiny and expansive, the wine's fine structuring tannins are entirely cloaked in succulent fruit. The finish displays good length and delineation. Of all Ponsot's grands crus, this will be the best bet for near-term consumption.