Anne Gros's 1999 Richebourg Grand Cru is showing well, unfurling in the glass with a still-youthful bouquet of creamy dark berry fruit, spices, plums and toasty new oak. On the palate, it's full-bodied, ample and layered, with a remarkably primary core of fruit, fine but gently chewy structuring tannins and ripe but lively acids. This is a strong effort in quite the comparatively oaky, extracted style that's so typical of this decade in the C?te de Nuits, my sole reservation being that it's a little short on complexity for a 20-year-old Richebourg.