The 2008 Pregio del Conte, a blend of Montepulciano and Aglianico, is an interesting wine. Red cherries, licorice, roses and sweet spices are some of the notes that emerge from this round, harmonious offering. Today it comes across as somewhat monolithic, with limited complexity. Still, there is more than enough depth and nuance to make me think it will continue to drink well for a number of years once the firm tannins soften a touch. Ultimately, these are relatively small critiques at this price point. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2020. Saladini Pilastri makes a wide range of wines, but readers are best served focusing on the reds. Incredibly, all of those wines can be had for under $25 a bottle.Importers: The Charmer Sunbelt Group, NY, NY; tel. (212) 699-7021
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