The single-vineyard 2003 Brunello di Montalcino Poggio alle Mura is marginally better than the regular bottling but it is essentially made in the same international style that favors up-front fruit over the subtle detail and nuance Sangiovese is capable of giving at its best. The wine offers greater depth in a soft-textured, full-bodied expression of dark jammy fruit, tar, licorice and sweet toasted oak. Here, too, the tannins are surprisingly astringent and unpolished, particularly in the context of the top 2003 Brunellos. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2018. Banfi makes a wide range of internationally-styled wines from its vast holdings in and around Montalcino. Importer: Banfi Vintners, Glen Head, NY; tel. (516) 626-9200

Poggio alle Mura, a special selection Brunello from Castello Banfi, exhibits depth, intensity and a very clean palette of aromas. There is forest berry, drying mineral, exotic spice and green curry leaf. The wine is firm and compact without being nervous or sharp.——M.L.(5/1/2009)—— 90