This is a joy to smell, filled with expansive notes of toasted coconut, ripe berries and vanilla, but also some darker, meatier scents. Unfortunately, the palate can’t quite match the excitement level—the flavors are a bit simple and fruit-driven, while the mouthfeel could use more lushness and depth. It’s still a good effort and a worthy companion to steak or roasts. ——J.C.(2/1/2007)—— 86