Also totally brilliant, the 2009 Syrah Lorraine’s Vineyard possesses incredible purity and focus with its creme de cassis, black raspberry, vanilla, spice box and licorice-styled bouquet flowing to a full-bodied, seamless wine that has no hard edges, building tannin and an overall perfect blend of richness and elegance. It’s approachable now, but given the overall density, will also age effortlessly for 15+ years. Drink 2015-2024. Located at the very southern end of the Edna Valley and residing in its own little micro climate, Alban Vineyards, under the guidance of John Alban, is a reference point for Rhone varieties in the world today. Looking at the vintages reviewed here, both 2009 and 2010 are strong, with the 2009s possessing plenty of sweet fruit and relatively approachable profiles, and the 2010s showing slightly more structure, with lively acidity and big frames that will fill in once bottled. As is common with John’s Syrahs, these continue to gain in richness and depth as they mature in barrel (they see upwards of 4 years in barrel) and really don’t show all of their material and richness until 4-5 years after the vintage. In addition to his single vineyard Syrahs, I was blown away by his Mourvedre-dominated Forsythe and the Grenache-heavy Pandora (which comes from a single plot of chalky soils). Both are up near the pinnacle of what’s coming out of California today and should not be missed. Tel. (805) 546-0305; www.albanvineyards.com

The 2009 Syrah Lorraine shows more of a profile of darker fruit aromas and flavors. It is a touch reticent today, especially in the bouquet, but there is no mistaking the wine's textural depth and sheer brilliance. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2027. (Not yet released)My visit with John and Lorraine Alban and winemaker Glenn Skrabanik was a highlight of the ten days I spent in the Central Coast. I tasted all of the 2008s and 2009 reds from barrel, plus the 2007s from bottle. Those lucky enough to visit the winery won-t see barrels ordered by conventional numbers, rather each series of barrels carries the names of thematic categories such as Kentucky Derby winners, Academy Award winners, etc. It is fair to say no one has done more for the Rhone Ranger movement in this country than John Alban. First and foremost, the Alban wines have led the way in terms of quality for many years. A founder of the hugely successful Hospice du Rhone, Alban has also planted and developed a number of clones that bear his name and that are used widely throughout California. For most of his early years Alban was forced to sell fruit from his property and rent out portions of his winery as a custom crush facility to make ends meet. Amazingly, after all these years 2011 is the first vintage in which Alban is not selling fruit and is vinifying only his own wines. Readers will find no shortage of compelling wines in vintages 2007-2009. The 2007s are big, powerful wines that show the opulence and weight of the year. Vintage 2007 was the first of three drought years that followed the generous 2005 and 2006 harvests. Alban gave his three top Syrahs a whopping 44 months in 100% new oak barrels. The 2008s are the product of a season marked by a spring frost. A blast of heat followed over Memorial Day, but the rest of the summer was relatively cool, with little sunlight because of the forest fires that year. As great as the 2007s are, I found myself equally drawn to the 2008s for their greater delineation and complex, multi-dimensional personalities. The 2009s are warm, radiant wines with silky, forward fruit and highly expressive aromatics. The 2008s and 2009s are still in barrel, though, so there is plenty of time to follow their evolution.Tel. (805) 546- 0305; www.albanvineyards.com

The 2009 Syrah Lorraine shows more of a profile of darker fruit aromas and flavors. It is a touch reticent today, especially in the bouquet, but there is no mistakingthe wine's textural depth and sheer brilliance.