All stainless fermented, this spiky, pungently grassy Sauvignon Blanc unabashedly showcases the grape’s Loire-Valley origins, rather than hiding behind a curtain of sugar and oak. A whiff of diesel comes into play also, contributing to the complexity. It’s concentrated and packed with fleshy fruit ranging from pears to peaches to papaya; a really nice combination of ripe fruit and strong herbal elements.——P.G.(5/1/2009)—— 88