Narcissus-like floral pungency on the nose of the Kollwentz 2007 Chardonnay Vom Leithagebirge lead to a saline, chalky, and pungently apple skin inflected palate. With a nice sense of fullness, yet also refreshment and invigoration, this Chardonnay done in a mixture of tank and older barrels will prove reliable at table for the next several years. Interstingly, the Kollwentzes are gradually acquiring a few new, large fuders for, among others, this wine. The Kollwentzes – Andi and father Anton Kollwenz – produce some of Austria’s most celebrated and expensive wines, and one would be hard-pressed to find two more conscientious or engaging vintners with whom to discuss their craft. I continue however to take highly variable satisfaction in the wines at this address, their reds and their single-vineyard Chardonnays often striking me as a bit stiff and overly-oaky, whereas the purity and longevity of their nobly sweet wines consistently impress, and I find their Sauvignon one of the world’s best (albeit little known outside Austria).Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700