Not surprisingly, the star of Leclerc's stable in 1990 is the Gevrey-Chambertin-Combe Aux Moines. Made from 80-year old vines, this opaque dark purple/black-colored wine exhibits a tight, but promising bouquet of black fruits, truffles, herbs, cloves, and smoke. In the mouth, there is astonishing richness, massive body, gobs of glycerin and extract, and a thick, chewy, long finish. I would wait at least 4-5 years before drinking this wine and then consume it over the first 15 years of the next century . It is the finest Combe Aux Moines that Leclerc has made since 1985.At the insistence of several American clients, this wine was bottled unfiltered six months earlier than normal. The cuvee that will be sold in Europe will be bottled early next year. Many observers have felt that Leclerc's practice of bottling his wines after more than two years in 100% new oak was excessive. There is no doubting that in top, highly concentrated vintages such as 1985 and 1990 the wines can tolerate more oak than in light years such as 1991 or 1987. The current offerings all performed significantly better than when I last tasted them with Leclerc in November, 1991.Importers: various American importers, including Ideal Wines, Medford, MA and William Grant and Sons, Edison, NJ.
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