Tardy’s 2007 Vosne-Romanee Chaumes comes from vines whose inherent vigor he says he has to prune especially severely to curb. With chewy fresh black fruits and clean, deep meatiness, this displays a satisfying integration of tannin and finishes with suggestions of black pepper and chalk dust adding interest. Although I don’t find a lot of charm here, there certainly seems to be 6 or more years’ cellar potential.
Young Guillaume Tardy took the reins from his father Jean in 2003, and beginning with the 2008 vintage has had to cede back to Meo-Camuzet the 50% share of fruit they long-retained for farming prime parcels in Nuits Boudots, adjacent Vosne Chaumes, and Clos Vougeot. While de-stemming entirely, Tardy is able to still retain a significant share of un-ruptured berries in the fermentor. Among his other habits intended to emphasize purity of fruit are absence or racking and bottling in December or January (although tardy malos resulted in the 2008s being bottled a bit later). I was especially surprised – as my scores suggest – to have found the 2007 vintage here so evenly-matched in quality with 2008, which Guillaume Tardy said was the more difficult of the two for him.
A Becky Wasserman Selection (various importers), Le Serbet; fax 011- 333-80-24-29-70
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