The DeMoors have segregated a 2006 Bourgogne Aligote Vieilles Vignes from their vines in Saint-Bris, and this displays a succulence, grip, and complexity of which their young vines are not (yet, at least) capable. Here, too, we have a surprising amount of body for this grape variety, and in addition a distinctly floral and high-toned almond perfume. Lychee, apricot, and pineapple lend luscious ripeness, and an ineffable set of mineral nuances informs the wine’s long, slightly sultry finish. I have had wonderful experiences with some DeMoor Aligotes from these old vines after as many as 6-7 years in bottle, but would plan to enjoy this 2006 over the next 2-3 years. With only a 35 hectoliter per hectare average yield, and given batches of high-alcohol Saint Bris and Chablis stuck with more than merely awkward residual sugar (as of last winter), one could hardly call 2006 a commercially successful year for the De Moors. But their best wines from this vintage are nonetheless admirable.Importer: Vintage 59, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 966-9812