The 2007 Syrah Pheasant Vineyard displays an aromatic array of earth notes, smoked meat, leather, and plum. Mouth-filling and chewy on the palate, it has plenty of stuffing but not the complexity of the other Syrahs. It will evolve for 2-3 years but can be enjoyed now. Over the past two years a cult following has sprung up around the persona of Charles Smith, imbuing him with larger than life attributes. By and large, he has acquired this status the old-fashioned way, he has earned it. When I tell enquiring minds that I’ll be visiting Charles later in the day, they know exactly where I’m going. Once past the persona, however, Charles Smith continues to make some of Washington’s finest wines. Native yeast fermentation, foot crushing, spontaneous malolactic fermentations, gentle basket pressing, no fining or filtration are routinely practiced in the cellar. Even more important, Charles Smith knows where to find the great grapes. In a region where blending is still the rule of thumb, he is the ultimate terroirist. Almost all of his wines are sourced from single vineyards. There are three groupings, the K Vintners selections, The Cayuse selections, and the Charles Smith selections. Tel. (509) 526-5230; www.kvintners.com

This is also a Milbrandt vineyard, but quite different flavors emerge from the other Milbrandt wines. Plenty of black cherry fruit, with a minerality that suggests iron ore. Penetrating, ripe and potent (15% alcohol), yet well balanced and complex, with wild herbs lurking in the background.——P.G.(2/1/2011)—— 90