The 2008 Dolcetto d’Alba Santo Stefano di Perno is remarkable in the way it captures the truest essence of this vineyard. Wild herbs, menthol, dark fruit, violets and minerals come through loud and clear in this focused Dolcetto. As always, the Dolcettos are the most rustic wines here, and the Santo Stefano di Perno will provide its greatest enjoyment at the dinner table. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2015. Proprietor Mauro Mascarello makes some of the most compelling, traditional wines in Piedmont. Mascarello’s signature Barolo, Monprivato, rarely shows well when young, yet it has a proven ability to transform magically in the bottle, something I have witnessed first-hand with more vintages than I can remember. The irony is that by the time the wines start showing well they are long gone from the market or have appreciated dramatically in price. Importers: Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404, The Rare Wine Co., Sonoma, CA; tel. (707) 996-4484