The 2006 Dolcetto d’Alba Santo Stefano di Perno reveals notable depth in its ripe dark fruit. The structure and minerality of this Monforte vineyard is quite present as this powerful Dolcetto reveals its intense and muscular personality. As is often the case with Mascarello’s Dolcettos the traditional style is borderline with what most tasters (me included) are likely to find acceptable in terms of the wines aromatics. This Dolcetto needs some serious aeration to clean up, yet the richness of fruit is remarkable. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2012. Mauro Mascarello is one of the most fascinating personalities in Piedmont. He is also arguably the longest-tenured active winemaker in the Langhe, having been directly responsible for all aspects of production at his family’s estate since 1970, which makes him an invaluable resource on the traditions of the region. Today’s younger generation of high-end producers speak with great reverence about Mascarello and even more so about his father Gepin who was a legend in these parts. Mascarello was an internationally-renowned producer decades before today’s big names were even making wines under their own labels. Twenty years ago, Mascarello’s signature Barolo Monprivato was one of the most expensive Barolos on the market. Then the new-age style became dominant during the 1990s and the estate languished in perception, but not quality. In recent times Mascarello has enjoyed a resurgence in popularity which is long overdue. Prices have gone up, but the Barolo Monprivato in particular remains a steal relative to other world-class wines. Monprivato is one of the handful of Italian wines than can hold its own with the best being made anywhere in the world. Importer: Doug Polaner, Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404; The Rare Wine Co., Sonoma, CA; tel. (707) 996-4484