You might not know it from this wine’s rather austere exterior, but this is actually from a warm site within the cool Yarra Valley. It’s a restrained, slightly herbal blend of 62% Cabernet, 27% Merlot and 11% Petit Verdot that finishes with a tough mouthful of tannin. Hold it for another 3–4 years and hope that the fruit holds up.——J.C.(9/1/2010)—— 89