The 1985 Chablis 1er Cru Vaillons derives from Romain Collet's birth year, so I brought a bottle from my Beaune cellar to the domaine, which he kindly insisted we taste together. Opening in the glass with aromas of smoky yellow apples, honeycomb, fresh mushroom and praline, it's medium to full-bodied, elegantly layered and precise, with good concentration and a saline finish. Fully mature, it is still drinking well.