The Stermer, which I have enjoyed in previous vintages, gets kudos for achieving an alcohol level at a moderate 13.5% despite being harvested at less than two tons/acre. Tight, spicy and astringent, it falls quite short in the mouth, resisting efforts to open it up with additional breathing time. It is more of a component than a full-flavored, full-bodied finished wine.——P.G.(11/15/2007)—— 86