Gies-Duppel Riesling Trocken Rotliegendes

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The Gies-Duppel 2009 Riesling trocken Rotliegendes displays an aura of smoked meat, fresh citrus and dusty evocation of crushed stone all typical of its Permian sandstone origins. Tight, bright, snappy, and lip-smackingly saline – like its immediate siblings – this has a glossier feel, silkier texture, and more palpable sense of sheer extract, yet at 12.5% alcohol comes off as handsomely fit and agile. I would plan on enjoying it over the next 4-6 years. Volker Gies – for more about whose vineyards and methods consult my coverage in issue 185 –continues to display impressive talent and is happily receiving increasing recognition inside Germany. Hopefully wider U.S. distribution of this estate’s wines will follow. Like other of the best 2009 vintage Rieslings from Gies’s corner of the southern Pfalz, his harbor highly efficacious acidity and high energy of a sort that can by no means be taken for granted – not even on the Mosel! – in this vintage (and indeed, is almost entirely absent in the Rieslings from further south in Alsace). I have been quite keen on Gies’s Pinot Blancs, but found them (as well as his Pinot Gris) – despite ample ripeness – marginally disappointing from 2009, a circumstance familiar from this vintage in neighboring Alsace.Importer: Tartaglione Fine Wines, San Francisco, CA; tel. (415) 216-3356