The 2005 Pundericher Marienberg Riesling Auslese Gold Capsule smells alluringly of grilled pineapple, honey, pear nectar, and smoked meat. On the palate, it manages to strike a lovely balance between creaminess and glossiness of texture, caramelized pear, and honey on the one hand and fresh, juicy pineapple and lemon on the other. A satisfying finish pushes just to the edge of bitterness but redeems itself with generous, enveloping fruit. I confess to having been less impressed as Busch’s 2005s rose in Oechsle and residual sugar from this point. Also recommended: 2005 Pundericher Marienberg Riesling Spatlese trocken*** ($39.00; 86).Clemens Busch farms the steep slopes of the once-famous Pundericher Marienberg on the Lower Mosel entirely organically, which makes him unique in the region and a source of wonder for his fellow vintners. Most of his top wines are labeled with their old pre-1971 site names. (Increasingly many growers are managing to get away with this.) Best-known inside Germany for his dry wines, he has nevertheless crafted excellent nobly sweet Rieslings in the present as well. The style tends toward creaminess of texture and ripe, relatively low acidity, particularly at the dry end of the spectrum.Importer: Mosel Wine Merchant, Manhasset, NY and Trier, Germany; tel. +49 (0) 651 14551 38