The 2017 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Cazetiers is a little shy after its recent bottling, opening in the glass with aromas of wild berries and orange rind that are framed by a generous application of new oak. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, fine-boned and elegant, with lively acids, fine and powdery tannins and a precise finish. This is never going to challenge the lovely 2016 rendition, but by contrast, it will show all its cards with minimal bottle age.