As usual with Donnhoff's renditions of this site, his 2007 Norheimer Kirschheck Riesling Spatlese displays a profusion of flowers (buddleia, rose lily, and cherry blossom) on the nose and cherry fruit and citrus on the palate that combine for an irresistible charm offensive. This silken, pure Riesling is suffused not only with wafting floral perfume, but with saline, savory, scallop-like mineral notes that add to its utterly lip-smacking, saliva-inducing brand of refreshment. Here's a great example of residually sweet Riesling possessing not one gram more than needed for maximum support of its aromas and fruit flavors, so that sweetness per se is the last thing you have on your mind as you reach for the next sip. While there is no extended track record yet at this address - and perhaps never has been for a Kirschheck with this sort of balance and sheer quality - experience with analogous Donnhoff wines suggest one could hold it for at least two decades. But don't miss it now, either!
While Donnhoff returned to his usual humility in characterizing the latest vintage - following an atypically unabashed outbreak of enthusiasm in describing his indeed amazing collection of 2006s - it is clear that the 2007s delight him in a similar way, as outstanding representations of their respective sites at Spatlese ripeness. (Note, incidentally, that the Pradikat has been removed from any dry wines here, in keeping with a new convention of the Nahe branch of the VDP growers- association.) -Within that range of ripeness,- he submits, -one best-recognizes the site. Here you have nothing exaggerated, but instead a normal harvest, meaning a documentation of the vineyards, each a different face on the landscape. They all went to the same school and had the same opportunities- he adds, gesturing to the long row of Spatlesen on the tasting table, and alluding to his own role as well as the vintage-s. -It was a bit intimidating this year at harvest,- he added, -because when the grapes are perfect, you can only make mistakes.- I had the rare fortune to taste this collection twice, and like so many 2007s (a comment that even more growers made about their 2008s) the wines were much more impressive in September than in Spring. A 2007 Hermannshohle Trockenbeerenauslese, by the way, is still trying to become wine after two years.
Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300
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