The 1997 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva may not hit the heights of the remarkable 1997 regular bottling, but it is still a fascinating wine. Its deep garnet color is accompanied by a big, sweet nose of melted asphalt, truffles, soy, tobacco, leather, and glorious quantities of red currant and black cherry fruit. Dense, ripe, layered, and sweet, it may not be as exuberant as the regular bottling, but it is a brilliant effort nevertheless. This is one 1997 Brunello that lives up to the vintage's reputation. Anticipated maturity: now-2015. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300; Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700; and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411