The 2009 Zinfandel Papera Vineyard caresses the palate with dark red fruit, sweet herbs, tobacco, licorice and crushed flowers. There is an inner warmth and sweetness that gives the Papera much of its textured, open personality. I especially like the energy, focus and vibrancy. Exotic fruit, herb and spiced notes add complexity on the finish. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2019. I tasted a dizzying array of Pinot Noirs from Williams Selyem and winemaker Bob Cabral. Yields were down in 2009 because of bunch-stem necrosis, a condition that can occur because of weather/humidity extremes or mineral imbalances. Otherwise, it was a pretty regular vintage with an even set and a harvest that took place beginning in early September. Tel. (707) 433-6425

Strikes a nice balance between the softness of the ’08 and the firmness of the ’07. A beautiful Zinfandel, made in the winery’s style of big, ripely extracted fruit and high alcohol. Massive in raspberry and cherry jam, red licorice, gingersnap cookie, cola, clove, black pepper and smoky cedar flavors, its extraordinary richness is balanced with fine, thick tannins. ——S.H.(2/1/2012)—— 92