The 2008 Zinfandel Papera Vineyard has a more raspberry, blueberry, and boysenberry-infused nose, a similar dark opaque purple color, tart, high acids, medium to full body, and juicy fruit. I just don’t understand the heavy-handed acid adjustments, given what extraordinary fruit this wine possesses. With thirteen separate Pinot Noirs, Williams-Selyem has something for just about everybody. Eight of these Pinot Noirs hail from relatively well-known sites in the Russian River and three come from the Sonoma Coast, while the two outliers are the Weir Vineyard from Yorkville Highlands and the Ferrington Vineyard from the Anderson Valley. Three well-regarded vineyards of the Sonoma Coast comprise part of this impressive Pinot Noir portfolio from Williams-Selyem. With eight Russian River bottlings, the two with the largest availability are the Eastside Road Neighbors and Westside Road Neighbors, which are blends from different fruit sources. The most underrated wines in the entire portfolio are the Zinfandels that come from winemaker Bob Cabrol. Tel. (707) 433-6425; Fax (707) 433-6546

Made in a big, overripe, soft and slightly sweet style, this will appeal to fans who like a more flamboyant Zinfandel. It’s very ripe in berry jam, orange pekoe tea, cola and spice flavors. Almost a food group in itself. Drink with powerful, rich fare, such as spicy Vietnamese beef, Mexican tamales and tacos, or good old rubbed beef barbecue. ——S.H.(2/1/2011)—— 88