The 2006 Gigondas reveals a cool climate, minty character along with berry fruit and crushed rock notes in its medium-bodied personality. The inimitable Feraud family, true guardians of the most traditional style of Provence and several Rhone appellations, is increasingly spearheaded by daughter Laurence, but her charismatic father, Paul, is always on the scene, with her mother, running the office. While Pegau’s expanding production should be carefully watched, the talent is certainly there. Forgetting the estate wines, there are three levels of quality and price, including a new Tetra Pak in a liter package that is quite good. There are also the Selection Laurence Feraud, a negociant line of wines, and a second negociant line-up sold under the moniker Feraud-Brunel, which Laurence oversees along with Andre Brunel. 2007 is an undeniably great vintage for the Feraud wines.Importers: Dan Kravitz, Hand Picked Selections, Warrenton, VA; tel. (540) 347-9400; Martine’s Wine, Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-0400; and J and R Selections, Mt. Pleasant, MI; tel. (734) 662-3753