The Jadot white 2007 Beaune Bressandes is bright and snappy, revealing in an apply way the presence of some malic acid. That said, it displays plenty of textural polish carpets its flavors with wet stone. The alternation of fresh apple and stone reminds me of the Mosel. This should be fascinating to follow for at least 5-6 years. Incidentally, Bressandes is one of those curious vineyards a portion of which is not premier cru-rated. And since that portion is the source for a portion of the fruit in this wine, it is not labeled as premier cru.
Jadot is one of those addresses where I confess to having feared that the combination of this vintage’s marked impression of acidity and relative leanness with Jacques Lardiere’s love of precision and merely selective use of malo-lactic fermentation might result in a dearth of sensual appeal. And he is the first to admit that a relatively high proportion of malic acidity was present in 2007, along with a danger of vegetal notes. But Lardiere took most of his 2007s all the way through malo, and my fears were at worst marginally realized. An overarching caveat is that these wines received higher dosages of sulphur (25 versus 15 grams) at bottling than those of other recent vintages, and will – Lardiere opines – take longer to shake off a certain pungency or hardening, but it did not find that alarming. As usual, I could not take time to taste all of Jadot’s many bottlings, which are less numerous this year, in any case, than in 2006. Incidentally, the first vintages of Domaine Ferret Pouilly-Fuisse under Jadot’s ownership and Lardiere’s direction – on which I shall report at a later time – are tremendously successful, preserving and even elevating critical elements of the personality that has long wines from that estate so memorable.
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